The attic is a place dedicate to share my passion :costuming and sewing.I'm not a professional or expert seamstress,only the mother of young kids who love sewing.You won't find 100% historical costume,museum replica, perfection or extreme thing here.

I believe everyone who bring some goodwill can sew and enjoy it.The attic is an unpretentious place .I show my work, information and hope it could somehow inspired you.Feel free to leave comment or share idea.Be welcome and visit as much as you want.

jeudi 9 août 2012

Making the jacket - a transformation

The last piece of the costume : the jacket.As you know , it was a simplicity dress with a zipper in the back before and I wanted to modify it to something more historically correct.Here is want I get.

 The last picture of the dress before I undo it.The sleeves were too long and the ruffle in the front were falling.The blue seem darker but only because of the light and the spot I take the picture.Now I have  better  .
 A front view of the result  with a stomacher made of the same fabric.The yellow butterflies are pins.
The original pattern from Pattern of fashion 1 by Janet Arnold , p26 model B jacket from 1735-40

Where should I start.Making this project was a challenge and a nightmare.The challenge part.There is many thing I didn't know how to do it like the petticoat , finding the good accessoiries and using a pattern from a book for the first time.

The nightmare part.My first plan was to use the pattern from the book  Pattern of fashion1 p26 model b .We don't have a scanner at home so I ask my honey to do it from work and he says no problem.He also told me he could scan it and print it at the right scale.After asking well 10 times and more , it take 3-4 weeks before I finally get the thing.

The deadline was closer at this moment and I had no time for problem.I first cut the pattern in a cheap fabric to see how it fit but something was wrong.I had this pouffy effect on the side.I didn't know how to fix it .I was so , so dissapointed.My first thoughts was to give up , later to invent a false reason to not go to the activity I was suppose to organize.Finally I use the old part to create new one.
Front view with the jacket open to show the stomacher.The shape is similar to one model page 28.

To save time I use the pieces I already have to create something closer of the  pattern .The original front and side become a single piece and same thing for the back .I use the same sleeves and did the ruffle like those page 30 in the book.

I make a stomacher which really did not need embroidery because the fabric already have a great design.I start sewing hook and eye to fix the stomacher but sadly I soon realize they do not match so I can't close it properly.After three , I stop. For the event,I use safety pins .

I create the lower part of the jacket  but I'm not really satisfy with it.All the new pieces had been cut from the four pannels of the old dress.
A side view to show the ruffle.I really like the effect it create , it's elegant.I look at the piece in the book and draft it on paper.That was simple to do.

As you can see the back piece is too long.With the bumroll in place it gave this pouffy weird look.Anyway,the jacket itself is at least 2 sizes biggers then it should be.It's suppose to be adjust and it's not.At least it's comfortable.There is no lining inside because even if some fabric can breath , I have a very low tolerance for heat.

My honey make a confession:he doesn't like costuming event anymore. I must admit I haven't make anything for him since a long time and my skills are better now then when we met.He did came to the event in his old costume.It has required many reparations like some open seams need to be close and lost buttons .Time haven't been gentle with his costume.I gave him the choice to come or not , he came and I'm glad he did.

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