Underdress and final dress : to be complete in the futur

 Sketch of the pieces for the lower part of both final gown and under dress.

One of my greatest fear during the process of this project is about the shape of the dress.Even if I have done a lot of research I'm always scared to not have the perfect , historically correct cut of my piece to achieve a right look.Even if I have a pattern form Reconstructing history , I did change it to fit what I want.

What I found the most usefull is the web site of Katerina the purple files on Florence dressing and the link to the colluquium about the dress of Eleonora of Toledo.If I had seen this before , I think I didn't buy the pattern of RH.There is no need.

Mock up in progress

 As you can see , the lower part of the dress have big pieces .My table was not enough and I found the floor more usefull then ever.Hopefully my son was at the daycare at the moment I did that , otherwise it wouldn't be possible.

I plan to have a longer back for the final dress and more straight for the under dress.The lacing will be on the side not on the back.I haven't choose if I will have a more round or a v shape for the upper part.

The fabric : silk damask and silk taffeta from renaissance fabric .I did fall in love with the silk damask but can't say the same about the other.

I know many costumer love with a big L silk taffeta because it's not too shiny and the crisp feel.My problem is about washing it.It is suppose to be dry clean.I wasn't able to find dry clean kit to do it at home and I really don't see myself to give my fabric to a cleaning service .It's not a cheap fabric and I will trust no one else then me .

I did wash it with water , it was a little dirty .The color wasn't the same.When I receive the fabric I thought there was a mistake because it looks like grey.Washing it was a necessity but the wrinkles.I did gently iron with steam but it's not enough to make it 100% perfect and I want it to be perfect.I seriously plan to buy a steam machine or to buy another piece of the fabric.

I thought I could make a second pair of sleeve lined with fur.I got this false fur for a good price .The color is more cream - yellowish then the picture shows.

To help the skirt of the dress to hold better his shape , a lining at the hem.This is a period correct method to use.I will try the 2 following : on the top dutch linen tape , bottom twill tape.The size is almost the same and each will be used on a different part of dress.Both tape have been buy from William Booth draper.

Two sleeves mean they will could be remove and need to be somehow attach.I will made handmade eyelet .I found a purple silk ribbon and metallic point for the end of the ribbon.The color of the ribbon is not exactly what I want but until I found better it will be this one.The point are from Historical enterprises , ribbon from Sartor.

Right now not much of the fabric is cut.Many adjustment have to be done .The totality of this project is on the hold for the moment.I have many other little things to do before jumping back in this project but I hope to be able to do it somewhere in the autumn.

This was the last post about all I have done so far for this project and what have been done during the costuming challenge.If there is anything you would like to have more detail about it , let me know.I can write more on it.