Restoration of an antique hat

A few years ago , I buy this hat on etsy from the seller The hat museum.I just fell in love with the style.There was a good reason if this hat was not expensive , around 40$: many dark brown stain.This hat is an Henry Pollak from the 60's that mimic a style of the 30's.A few stain didn't stop me .

 Original picture from the seller.You can see the stain on the brim and the ribbon is fray at the end.Hopefully it didn't smell awful when I receive it , it might happen with antique thing store for a too long time.

 I start by removing the jewel and the ribbon which was glue on it.Not much glue hopefully.As you can see there is a major difference of color.After that , I decided to gently wash the hat with water and soap.It was not only to try to remove the stain but to remove over 50 years of dust.I used a biological soap.

 A gift I receive to put my hat on it , an hat support made by my father in law.Now my hat is proudly on it in my sewing room.

 A stamp inside the hat , a little damage but could be read : 100% wool Glenover Henry Pollak inc New York.

 It would be quite impossible to describe the color of the water when I wash the hat.Let's just say it was a good thing to do.Even after trying different stain remover and  soap , the stain haven't be 100% remove.They pass from dark to pale and at this point you should be very close to see it.I won't dye it because I love the color.

The original ribbon have fray a lot.If I had cut it , it would not have been possible to have the same length and style.I buy a new one from a very close color.I know from a value point , keeping the original stuff is always the best but I didn't buy it for that reason.The new ribbon is only  fix in the front with a few stitches.

I wash the jewel with water and soap.My honey point me that I should use alcohol but the result is still good and no harm was done.I stitch it at the top and the bottom exactly like it was .There's no hole or pin so I have to do it the same way.

In the future I may used a spray to protect it like the one you used for suede shoes.I think it might help to stop the dust to enter in the wool and repeal water just in case of.

The result.The jewel and ribbon are shiny , stain are pale.The wool still looks old even if it's clean but I believe 50 years old wool can't looks like new one.Now I can put it on my head proudly and go out.

What I would do differently ? I would say nothing for now.I'm not an expert , I never restore an antique hat before.It take time but it feel rewarding and satisfactory to bring something back to life.If you know someone more expert then me or have advice for next time, I would love to hear it because I hope I will do it again .If I have to give advice from this experience I would say follow your instinct first and do logical choice.

Accessories

A costume will be nothing without proper accessories.Here are a few I made for differents occassions.
Also know in french as a " chaperon avec liripe".In fact it's a hood with a long point that can reach the middle of your back and a short cloak that cover the shoulder.The front can be lace ,close ,there is many way to make it.This one was made for me for the winter , two layers of polar with a lining.My honey like it so much I decided to give him .I know simplicity have a pattern of it and many book on medieval clothing have some too .Very easy to do and usefull.

An elegant net made for a lady.I also find tiny version at the dollar store.It was my first try on this and I'm not completely satisfy.It's made from simplicity 5740.This one is made of a black cord and I sew whites beads on it.For best result,I suggest to make the pattern greater specially if you have long hair and to not use elastic.To best describe it , I will say it a great circle in which many lines are cross .Everytime a line cross another you make a knot and a bead or pearl if you wish.It suppose to only cover the back of the head.I also made a silver version with elastic but with long hair it stretch.You can make the net and fix it to a metal base.A good example to see if in the movie Ever after with Drew Barrymore , when the character of Danielle is going to the court to save her servant.It can give a good idea on what is possible to do .

This hat (simplicity 4059)was made for my honey to match with an outfit I never finish.The best picture I was able to take was on a lamp.It also have faux feathers and the brooch (which is mine)was an addition for the medieval wedding we went.Since it suppose to fit with an elisabethan outfit I guess the similar model offer in the book The tudor tailor by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcom-Davies will be better .

Every year when Gwenyver and I are going to the Fête médiévale de St-Colombant , someone is telling us we looks like nun.Why?Because one of us is wearing a veil.

In middle age , any lady doesn't matter her rank should wear something to cover her head.Only child have the privilege to not do it.This one is not historical but looks good.

I first made a band of fabric to fit around my head and another to fit from the head and pass under my chin.Both band are cross over my ears.A squarre made the piece that go under the chin and are attach on the side by snaps .The major piece is a rectangle great enough to cover the head and hang in the back.It is fix with pins to the band, one in the front and one on each side of the head to make the pleat you see or I add a gold metal circlet.

Idid not use any pattern , only my imagination to make it.The fabric is silk suede or satin (light fabric)I can't remember with an embroided chiffon .It's not historical but it do the job perfectly.