Designer :Jeanne Lanvin

Designer :Jeanne Lanvin 1867-1946

A model of dress around 1916.

 

When I did start searching for information about this designer , I was really amaze to learn the Lanvin house still exist today.Old couture house rarely survive to time and war .

A silk , feather and willow hat around 1917.

 

Jeanne Lanvin is born in 1867 in Paris(France) from a poor family.At thirteen years old she was already working ,she was making hat.She will later open a small shop .

Jolibois dress made of silk with embroidery around 1922-1923.

 

In 1896 she did married and had a daughter , Marguerite Marie Blanche.She start making clothing for her.Shortly client ask to have what they saw .This is how she truly jump into fashion.People appreciate what they saw and ask to get it .

An evening ensemble around 1923.

 

The design of Lanvin is simple : making dress with style which could fit women of all age.That may sound easy but it's not .She will  success.In 1908 she start a child clothing department.In 1909 ,it's a department for young ladies and women which open.It won't take long for  the house to become part of the elite of couture house.

Robe de style  around 1926-1927.

 

The years of 1920 will bring many changes.The house take expansion. They now offer  lingerie, men's wear , household good , perfume and fur to their client.In 1926 , Jeanne Lanvin receive the honnor of being named Chevalier of the french.

An evening wrap with fur around 1929.

 

Many designer had problem with copier even if there is law to protect their work.To be sure no one could copy the color they use , in 1923 ,  the house open a dye factory in Nanterre.They want their colors to be very exclusive.They also create the blue lanvin , pink polignac and green velasquez. 

An evening dress made of silk taffeta around 1930.

 

The house of Lanvin participate to the exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels in 1925.The same year , the house offer is first perfume call My sin. In 1927 another perfume appear on the market : Arpège.

Evening dress inspired by the houpelande of the middle age . The color of this dress is the famous lanvin blue made by the dye factory the house own.Made around 1934-1935.

Another evening dress in white silk , around 1937.

 

As you could see , most pictures I choose are evening dress.They have a simple style and all the elegance they needed.I think it gave a good idea of the kind of work Lanvin did.

The  cyclone dress around 1939.

 

Now the big question : how the house of Lanvin survive ? Many other big name did not and were sold so what is the secret. I think there is three majors reasons .

 

1-The style. Lanvin was not exotic or so so much luxurious .It was more classic and elegant.Making clothing for a larger public  and also offer more product surely help.The potential client was not limited to a very small group.

 

2- The way the house is run. A good , scrupulous  and attentive management is very important.The last member of the Lanvin family who participate in the fonctionnement of the house was in the 1989 as a designer.Surely preserving your family heritage push you to surpass your limit and do your best.Personnally it's something I will do.

3-Quality and standard.If you sell something of quality it have to stay this way.An example of what I mean is if for some reason you have difficulties,you should not change the type of fabric like silk for a cheap look of silk.Maintain a standard and an non changing quality is essential.

With years the house had knew many hands and had been sold a few times.Today the house mainly focus on prête à porter clothing and still continue to offer many other product.Of course it's not accessible to every budget.If you visit the web site of Lanvin house , you could see many pictures and some historical video showing the founder of the house Jeanne Lanvin.Take a look , you may found inspiration.

Pictures from the Met museum

The Callot sisters

 

 

A négligé made of silk around 1898-1902.

 

You probably notice I like designer from the past.This one or those one to be correct are special.They all are but those have a very particular style.Before talking of it and what they have done , let me introduce them and delight your eyes with pictures.

A coat made of silk , fur and wool around 1900.

 

 

A back view of a dinner dress , silk and linen , around 1908.Look at the amazing details.

 

The Callot sisters are 4 , Marie , Marthe , Régina and Joséphine.With those name you can guess correctly they are from Paris , France.Their mother was a lacemaker.It's probably why they start working with lace and ribbon for lingerie and blouse.A nice start.

An evening dress around 1909-1910.

 

 

I like the fur of this dress ,so gorgeous, around 1910-1911.

 

In 1895 they open their house in Paris making what I've mention earlier.They will start making more clothing.In 1915 they participate to the international exposition in San Fransisco California by presenting their creations.

 

A chic evening dress , side view, 1910-1914 around.I would like to have this one in my wardrobe.

Looks like a dressing gown? It's not.This is a silk dress clearly inspired by kimono, around 1918.

 

It's interesting to know the designer Madeleine Vionnet had work has an apprentice for the sisters.She will be well know.I wrote an article on her if you want to know more.

 

 

Another dress inspired by Asia , around 1919.

 

A tea gown around 1920.

 

I said the Callot sisters were special.Like other ,  their work was of a great quality , luxurious material and fashionable details.They were know for the exotic-special detail they made.They were among the first designers to use gold and silver lamé to make dress.A quick look on their creations and you could know what they were inspired by.In my choice of pictures , I try to put mostly what is typical of that.

An evening suit around 1920.

A dress with byzantine , hispano and moresque style  , around 1923.

 

In 1910- early 1920 they were using construction and embellishment technic from Africa and Asia.Will you be surprise if I told you they receive client in a chinese style room? It gave to the client a unique experience and they came from Europ and United States for that.

An evening dress around 1924-1925.

An evening dress around 1925-1926.

 

1920.The house of Callot is now prosperous and well know.They are part of the major and leading couture house.The sisters open succursales in Nice , Bianitz , Buenos Aires and London. In 1925 they participate to an exposition in Paris: the exposition des arts décoratifs et industriels.

Another example of dress inspired by Asia , around 1925-1926.I specially like the color and the design on it.

A dress to dance all night  , around  1926-1927.

 

The son of Marie take the business in charge in 1928.With years , the market become more and more competitive.Difficulties force the house to close in 1937.It is sold to another couture house, Calvet , which will use the name Calvet and Callot.Even with this revival , they could not resist to the difficulties bring by the world war two .They finally close between 1948-1952 , I'm not exactly sure of the date since again no one have the same.A lot of the creations of the sisters survive.I could show more and more pictures.This is the end of another great house.

 

All pictures are from the Met museum. If you like what you have seen , the museum offer more view of it.

Designer : Jeanne Paquin

 

Jeanne Beckers is born in1869 in the famous Paris , France.She will married in 1891 and from this moment will take the name of her husband .She will be know as Jeanne Paquin and her house will take this name.

 

 A ball gown made of silk around 1895.

 A cape made of silk and lace around 1900.

 

Jeanne Paquin was trained like many other as a dressmaker.She open her couture house in 1891 after her wedding.

 A ball gown in silk around 1901.

 

Paquin has her own style.She found inspiration in 18th century clothing and make empire waist dress popular again.She made tailor day dress and like pastel color for her evening gown.She also like fur and lace for her creations.

 An evening dress around 1904 ,back view.This dress is amazing by all the details and beads on it.

Paquin  was able to follow the evolution of the style in her time.She had a modern spirit and it is reflect in how she work.She did become famous and soon she know success.

 A walking suit in silk and wool around 1910.

Paquin is not a designer who stay in her workshop and do not put the nose out.She was a business women who know exactly what is publicity and marketing.That remind me another designer  who know that too.

 A wedding dres in silk and cotton with beads,around 1910.Simple but so much elegant.

 

To show her creations , she send her models to race and opera.If people see what you do , they are going to want what you do.With this in mind she also organise fashion show to make promotion.

 

 An afternoon dress in blue silk , around 1906-1908.

 

Being a successfull house , Paquin was able to open stores in Madrid , New York and Buenos Aire.The head office was move to London and the store in Paris stay open.Everything was going well.

An evening dress in silk and cotton , around 1912.Look at the blue part of the dress , does it remind you some kind of older style of dress?

 In 1920 , Jeanne Paquin is now 51 years old and decided to retired.After that , the house was manage by differents hands.Sixteen years later in 1936 she died.

The founder of the house will never saw this expansion.In 1953 or 1954 not sure of the exact year  , the house of Paquin buy the french branch of the house of Worth. This house was extremely famous(there is a post about Worth) and had been manage by the family for so long.But the house of Paquin and Worth , like most to not say all of couture house , had difficulties and was force to definitively close in 1956.

Pictures from the Met museum.

Designer : Jacques Doucet

I won't lie .I didn't find a lot of informations on this designer.I consider what  I do have is basic .Even if I didn't find answer to many questions  I must share my info on him.What he did is beautiful and need to be show.

 A gown made of silk and cotton , around 1880.

                                                           

 A golden dress made of silk , around 1880.

 

Jacques Doucet was born in a well establish family in 1853.His family was running a business of lingerie since 1817.In 1870 , he open a couture department .From this moment the business take expension and will be know for the  meticulous quality of Jacques Doucet creations.

 A ball gown made of silk around 1898-1900.As you can see , his creations has  changing like fashion did.This gown have no sleeve and the neckline is very low.

 

 A ball gown made of silk around 1902.The dress may looks simple but what make the difference is all the details on it.

 An afternoon dress around 1903 , made of cotton and silk.

 A suit made of cotton around 1903-1906.

 

Doucet became famous for his extravagant dress and luxurious coat.He did have for client people from  the elite of the society from both Europe and  America as well as famous actress for that time.Doucet was establish in a well know capital of fashion : Paris.Things were going very good for him but fashion was not the only thing he like.

 An afternoon suit made of silk around 1904.

 

Doucet did have a real passion for art.The money he make from selling his creation was use to buy it.He did buy painting , sculpture , art and literature.A real collector of art.There is no doubt  that this passion did have  influence his creation of gown .His collection of art have been given to university.If you search for info on him , you will get the impression he's more know for his passion for art then clothing. 

 An example of a luxurious coat.This one  is for the evening and is  made of silk with fur , around 1910.

An ensemble made of silk and wool around 1920-1923.

 

Jacques Doucet main work are at the end of the 19th century and at the beginning of the 20th cenury.He die in 1929  at 76 years old.He stay in history as one of the finest french couturier for the Belle époque era.

 

I wish I could talk more about him but thats all I found on him.I do have many questions with no answer .This article may benefit of an update in the futur .If you do have a reference ,book or web , which can bring more info about him don't be shy to share.I will be happy to read it and share .

To know where my pictures are from , look at the post museum.I take my pictures from this list.Those are from the Met and Victoria and Albert.

Designer : Charles Frederick Worth

                                                         A dress around 1862 -65

If  you ever need inspiration to create a fabulous dress , the designer Charles Frederick Worth (1825-95) could surely be a great source of inspiration.The father of haute couture left his mark.Here we talk of absolute luxury and beauty.

                                                       An afternoon dress around 1872

Worth is born in England and move to Paris in 1845 or 1846(differents sources mean differents dates).He work as a salesman in a company which sold differents goods.He make dress for his wife and some clients wish to have the same.He open a small dressmaking department and it was his beginning as a professionnal .

                                                        A tea gown around 1875-80

                                                            A back view of the gown
His designs win prize in 1851 at the great exhibition of London and in 1855 in Paris for the exposition universelle.

In 1858 , Worth open his own couture house with an associate : Bobergh.He was willing to take the risk of such a project .He retired in 1871 and Worth became the only owner.1860 was for Worth the beginning of his popularity.

                                                  A court presentation dress around 1885

                                               Court presentation dress around 1888
To be present at the court was an important event for a young women.Every women want to look at is best , surely a beautiful dress make by a popular designer help.

                                                        An evening dress around 1888

Worth did not have any clients , they were royalty from Europe , actress , singer  and fortunate american.His first royals clients were the princess of Metternich and the empress Eugénie .People were ready to travel as much as it need to buy his creations.Some of them buy entire wardrobe.

                                                           A ball gown around 1872

                                                             A back view of the gown

But what make Worth so special ? Of course his design and style were exquisite . He use exclusive trim and fabric (which include a lot of silk) . The luxury people had in mind , he bring that to live.He was meticulous and the final result must fit perfectly like no other.Client expect the best and he gave it.

                                                          An ensemble around 1893

                                                             A coat with fur around 1894

                                                   A ball gown with butterflies around 1898

Another interesting point to the special treatment the clients received : the garments were present on living model in vast room.Imagine having a fashion show only for you.You select the design you like and the designer show you fabric to choose for your futur dress.This is what I call a good service.

                                                        A tea gown around 1900-01

                                                            A tea gown around 1910
After the death of his founder , the house of Worth continue to be successful .During 94 years it stays in the hands of members of the family.It start with the two sons Gaston-Lucien and Jean Philippe follow by Worth great grandson Jean Charles and his nephew Roger.Each of them had work on differents levels and keep in mind the values of the founder of the house.

                                                         An evening dress around 1902

The house of Worth close in 1952 when Jean Charles retired from the business.It was buy in 1954  by the house of Paquin and will take the name House of Worth and Paquin.

                                                        A dinner gown around 1908-10

An evening dress around 1938 design by Roger Worth

In Lincolnshire  England  , which is the birth place of Worth , a gallery have been open in his honnor being call The Charles Worth gallery.The owner of the gallery do not have the budget to buy a gown or any surviving garment.It will be too much expensive.They have made replica of dress and expose them.

Charles Frederick Worth was very popular and you could find so many garments which have survive to the time.I invite you to visit the virtual collection of the Metropolitan museum to see more pictures .They present many views and close-up .I promess hours of delight for the eyes.