End of the sewing contract

After the costumes I made for the play in april 2011 , I was hired to make basic costume which could be use in the futur and which could fit to anybody.I think I had proove I'm  a good seamstress and have all the quality required to work seriously in a professionnal world.

First I buy the fabric with the teacher  .It wasn't easy because the budget was limited and I was ask to do so many things with .We buy differents colors of fabrics,  most of them being cotton or blend at the lowest price possible.I bring yards and yards of fabrics at home and start working.

I made a total of 20 skirts , I was suppose to make 15 but the fabric was so large so I could do more .Each of them are a four pannels skirt with a cord at the waist .It have to fit to anyone so that's why I choose cord and not elastic.Another reason is teenage can be picky , it's too loose or too tight.Some skirt were a little shorter , other longer.Who knows who's going to where it.I have no picture of it , is it really a necessity?

I had to made 15 basics shirts for men .Some of them had to looks more elegeant , some more ordinary.I had to manage that depending of the fabric.The color were  white , beige and yellow which I thought will be multi-purpose.I'm pretty sure no guy want to wear a pale pink shirt if it's not necessary.This an exemple of men's shirt .

                                                                                                             For women , I had to make 15 chemises.The teacher had a specific model in mind so I did it exactly .The only difference between them were the fabric and sleeve , some had a cord at the wrist , other don't.Some chemise looks more ordinary and some more elegant .I think one or two fabric were satin or something very similar.

Making all the things I mention is time consuming as you could guess.I wasn't pay at the piece but for a number of hours I was ready to offer.I don't know if it was the right thing to do or if it's how professionnal work but I have nothing to complain about.At the end I also offer a few extra hours for free because I enjoy making this.

I did finish only half of the shirt for both men and women.Other were only required to do some finishing on it which was really not a big deal.So why I did not finish and ask to be pay for that?Because my midwife told me I should take more rest .I was very tired and my honey told me it was more important to take rest for me and baby then finish at any price.I must admit both were right so I gave unfinish work to the teacher with a phone number of another seamstress .

What did I learn from this experience?

It was interesting.I was more then happy to make costume for other .Communication is important at every level.Making 20 skirts is not like making a  unique piece , it's a repetition and it become boring at some point.Planification is essential to succeed specially with an important amount of work.If I was ask to do it again ,  will I accept? Yes but I don't think I will do the things the same way  . I think for such a big work like that ,  I do know now everything that is  involve and how to deal with it .The most important is I do not have any regrets and it was a pleasure to work for that teacher.

The last costumes

 I was ask to make a costume for a queen.Well , with no budget it could be hard but I try to do my best and I think it looks good on the student.This is the portrait of the real character , the empress Anna Ivanovna. I must say I was never ask to do a replica of this dress so don't be surprise if it doesn't looks like the original.

 The dress is , again , too small to fit on my sewing dummy.The bodice of the dress is made of a fabric I gave which help a lot to make this look more luxurious.The skirt is simply popeline .It close on the left with velcro.

 To gave some volume to the dress , I had two cushions I made on the back.It's not too heavy and look good.

 Of course there is no budget to make a fur cloak.Fur can be so expensive when it's not in sold.I thought at least I could use the tiny fabric(which was a skirt)to make some kind of cloak.It's simply a wide rectangle attach at the shoulders.

 A jewel I had on the front.It's funny to see how little details can change a look.At left you can see the earings that match with the necklace I use.It's attach on the front just below the shoulder.

 A dress made for a character , which I know nothing about it , but should looks like something Madame de Pompadour.The bodice is close on the left like most of the dress.The embroided part was a great squarre of fabric the teacher offer me to possibly use.The white strip fabric is a faux skirt , it's only one pannel on  the front.

 I made a bum roll to wear under the skirt .That may be not the best choice but from my point of view without it , it seems dull.

 A better view of the details of the embroided bodice.With my new camera it's mostly impossible to do a close up better then that.

The real Madame the Pompadour. Like I wrote for the previous dress, I wasn't ask to make a replica.

Even if I was ask to make replica of such dress , the budget does not allow to make something very close of it and surely I will decline and refuse to do so.I did use what I was ask to work with.The major problem was the time.If I had a little more , I could add  more details or more lace , but that wasn't possible.In any case , I do my best with all the restrictions and hope the students feel good in their costumes that's the most important.

Women from 1690

I had to make a costume for a character , a women from the year 1690.I wasn't sure what to do but hopefully I ahve a lot of book about costume.I first look in Janet Arnold Pattern of fashion in which I saw the evolution of the dress.It give me a good idea but not enough .My book of Historical costumes of England by Nancy Bradfield give me the missing details .

                              
 I decided to make a hat to wear with the costume exactly what it looks like in the book.I did use the fabric of this top as a base.It's mostly s crescent fill with thread and leftover fabric.I had lace and a veil in the back.Many to not say all student laygh when they saw it but that's really what the picture looks like .

                                                                A view of the hat.

For the dress , I make something similar wear in 1690 but I use many elements from the differents pictures in the book.There is lace and bows at the shoulder and on the bottom of the sleeves.I wish it looks like luxurious.Everything is in cotton except for the front piece which is linen.The dress is put on like a coat and close with velcro.

To wear with the dress there is a skirt , shiny with design.At first it was a very short skirt with a band of yellow fabric in the bottom.I decided to open all the seams to see if I could use the fabric and surprise.It was made from two very wide rectangle .I was able to make a long skirt with four pannels with that.

                                                                        Front view

       A view from the back

I try to do my best to do soemthing similar to the picture but I wasn't sure how to pin the overskirt but it's not so bad.Under it , I put a small cushion fill with leftover fabric.It replace the bustle it suppose to have.In case you ask , the sewing dummy did not wear the skirt because it is too small for it.

I bring this costume last monday.I have work very hard to be able to bring it.Sunday I went to my bed at midnight and I work on it during all the day monday.There is many many hours of work on that.

Coming next: a dress for a russian queen

                     a dress like Madame De Pompadour

A medieval princess

What is a medieval princess? I ask myself a long time before I start making this costume.The fact is , I wasn't sure of what I shall do .There is so many costume I wish I could try to make but not enough occassion to wear them so I finally decided to partially create my own pattern for this dress.

Of course a princess is a rich character , that's why I use a shiny fabric .My inspiration mostly came from a description I read in a book talking of a dress call " robe à pièche" .The "pièche " is a triangle piece of fabric pin on the undersdress to cover the part the dress does not because it is wide open in the front.For me it does looks like a houppelande but with a less bigger skirt.

For the pattern , I did found something that could do the job in the book The medieval tailor's assistant by Sarah Thursfield.I didn't have the time to reproduce the exact pattern in book .I choose to use differents pieces of differents patterns to modify and transform them to  get what I want.

The dress is open in the front and is put on just like a coat.The major fabric is a shiny unknow fiber found in the discount section of Fabricville.The collar , belt and sleeves cuffs are made from leftover of wool flannel I use for the normand costume.I shall use fur but too expensive for this project.The hat is a small version of a henin . The veil attached to it came from an old dress you may recognise if you have look on previous picture.Inside the hat , I glue a piece of leftover fabric to be sure the weight of the veil will not make the hat fall down and keep it's shape.

The final costume.The butterfly pins you can see on the dress are there because I always make final adjustment on the student when I bring the costume at the school.

My first idea of an hat.It's a simple veil attached in the front on a band of fabric.It was fast and easy which make it my first choice. When I finish the dress it just doesn't fit with the style .The dress is base on a historical model of the 15 century and this veil more close of the 11century.The henin was more appropriate and I think the final result represent more the image of a princess people may have in mind.

Coming next: a women from 1690 years

The compromise of style

Last sunday I had a three hours without electricity.My deadline to finish the costumes is march 28 . It's coming soon and there is a lot to do . To prove how much I'm working hard , I thought it will be nice to post this picture  showing that even in darkness , I found a way to continue .

I was ask to make a costume for an english soldier around 1650 like one you can see in the old movie Oliver Cromwell.I look a few times the movie on youtube but it was hard to say exactly what I should do.Without a sword , helmet and armour , it's hard to imagine a soldier.A few times in the movie you can see soldier which looks like musketeer.In people mind musketeer is associate to France.

To help me , I do try to make something like I saw in my book Historical costumes of England 1066-1968 by Nancy Bradfield.There is a few exemple of men of this period and it's a combination of those style I try to create.

I use fabric I already have.The front and back came from a shirt of my honey which was too tight for him.The collar and sleeve are leftover fabric I dye.Both fabrics are linen.

I use two differents fabrics to attempt to create the illusion of two layers , a shirt and something to wear over it.The collar of this time were wide and this one is very similar to one in the book.Some of the garment had button , some don't.I did use buttons I had but they are just a decoration because the front is close with velcro and a seam in the front without reason is not cute.

If the student had make a try of it when I start making the costume before I cut anything , I could probably avoid the buttons.He seems so afraid to came at my house even if it was just for 5-10minutes.I don't know what scare him the most : what people may say , to discover I have squeleton in the closet or something dead as a sacrifice on an altar for some voodoo ritual.He will never know.Did I mention he's also my co-worker?

The belt at the waist was no longer wear.To carry thier sword , men wear a belt at the shoulder.I guess the student will have at least a sword so I decided to make one just in case he will need it.I don't make it fancy and put an elastic inside for the sword which can be see on the picture.

I wish I could make an hat to go with it but I'm not sure if I will have time.Now the student can stop thinking he's going to have a squarre of fabric with an hole for the head.We make a lot of jokes about it.

Coming next : a medieval princess



The normand tunic



This costume have been create for the character of a warrior normand from the year 500. At some point I' glad that historical accuracy is not so important because I don't have time to do important research , only quick  research.

For the design , I take the inspiration in the book  Hasting 1066 from  Heimdal edition which is made in collaboration with The association for living history.The tunic is made of wool flannel and have been dye in tea. I also make winnigas but I thought it doesn't need to be picture. Winnigas are straps wear over the pant which are cross on the front , it start from the ankle and stop under the knee.Historically they were made of leather or wool  with or without design on it.  Exemple of this can be seen on the Bayeux  tapestry.

For people who never did sewing , it can be hard to imagine the time involve in the process of  making a costume.This tunic is a good exemple.

I work with a pattern I knew  very well  mccall 3789. I cut the fabric three times to be sure it will not be too big .It is tricky because the tunic  have to be comfortable so not too tight ,  have to be easily removed but doesn't have to look  too big for the person who's going to wear  it and keep in mind it will be wear with a belt.

In the creation of the tunic there is many step. The choice of the fabric is important. I shall find the right and appropriate design for the costume, this is the quick research part. .Find a pattern I  have or  modify one to work with.Cutting the fabric  and cheking the measures to be sure it will fit to the futur  owner. Drawing and make the design on the sleeves and at the bottom of  the tunic. Finally sewing all the rest of the tunic .

It take + - 3 hours to draw and make the design .During the process I broke a double needle because of a tiny mistake . I did loose time because of that. I did not do the design on  the same day but on a few of them. You can add an average of  3 hours to complete the tunic for a total of 6 hours of work.

I think people should keep this in mind : in every costume , simple or complex , it does required time and a lot of work more then you can imagine.

Coming next : english soldier

For a russian women

                                                    This costume belong to a student who's going to play a poor russian women.She must have a skirt and a blouse.To start the costume , I do receive this blouse and was ask to use it as much as possible.It required many modifications.

I did remove the shoulder padding , the fastening and the collar.The cut the blouse to make it shorter and adjust the sleeve.The central band you saw was the facing which I use to close 2/3 of the blouse.I use the collar and cut it to get something some high and more right.I did add a band of a different fabric to close the blouse on the side like russian men tunic.I use 3 of the 4 originals fastening .I finish it with a little tour in the dye made with tea.

The skirt is made of an imitation of linen.It's simply a four pannels skirt with a cord at the waist to adjust it.I know some people may say it doesn't looks like a russian outfit but the sutdent will also have a coat with this and it doesn't have to be historically correct.In any case it was made on the specifications I receive.

Thanks to my living model for the picture , my sewing dummy is too big for a small blouse like this.

Costumes for theatre part 3

 For this costume , I start with piece that already exist.The chemise and the skirt were sleeping in the closet at my parent's house.I did not change the chemise , at the neck and at the arm there is a small cord which permit adjustment.I modify the skirt , the front had a red panel which I replace by a very similar fabric and remove the part which had lacing.Both pieces are made of linen mix.The apron is a false imitation of linen and the band had a velcro on the back.The pouches are made from leftover fabric I had and are tie with cord.This costume is suppose to be for a medieval women , none historical but have been made on the specification I receive.

 I do receive this dress and have been ask : Can you do something with it?Before saying no , I like to take the time to look carefully on it.Under this grandma dress I discover this:

 A white sleeveless dress.After the student try it , the dress can fit but she have difficulties to remove it ,  it was too tight.In the same time , it was a little too short  because she's going to wear legging under it.Every girl in the play are going to wear a tshirt and legging.There is no time to be shy with the guys.Here is what I've done.

 I first try to dye the dress in tea.I wasn't sure because it looks like synthetic but there was no tag to know it.The dye did not take very well but just enough to say it a pale beige and not white.I use a very light fabric I had to make a frill at the bottom.It will hide the legging.She's going to wear a tshirt under the dress , so I make a shawl to hide it but I did forget to take it in picture.It's the same fabric for the shawl and the frill.

For the too tight part , I add a band of fabric on the side just enough to be sure she will be comfortable in it.It will be close with velcro .The student can put on and off this dress very quickly.

Coming up this week : a normand men
                                   a russian women

Let's start the costumes

Like I wrote previously , I gave a few fabrics for the making of the costumes.Some of this fabric are not beige but white.My friend Gwenyver told me I could use tea to dye the fabric , as long as it's natural fiber.I knew I could use tea to make paper looks older but I never try on fabric .It work very well.

 A pictures taken in my kitchen.You can see the tea bags flotting.At left you have the cord in is original white color and at right after the bath in tea.I use orange pekoe tea , it's not expensive and it smell great.

 An exemple of fabric  (wool flannel) ,  at left the original color and at right after a little bath in tea.

 The first thing I had to do is working with this coat.It looks like too old specially for a teenage .The character is a young italian women working in mafia.This coat goes with a dress I didn't need to fix.

 I removed the shoulder padding , the pockets and change the buttons for smaller one.I also change the bottom where the coat close. Only by removing the shoulder pad , the student feel better in it.

                                                     
A classical kimono for a geisha or at least for a more traditionnal japanese women.The front and back are made from singapor cotton , the sleeves are made from a polyester sheet I was suppose to give.The sheet is really soft to touch and the color match so well with the cotton.The picture show the first version of the sleeves , for convenience reason , they are now a little smaller.

The belt seem larger in picture but is not so big in reality.I had a stiff fusing in it so I'm sure the student will have a good posture.The teacher see that as a problem , she talk with me about the fact that many girls in the play do not have the right posture that belong to the character.So I hope it will help , it's the best I could do with limited ressource.

The back of the obi (belt).A simple bow which will be attached with velcro.The student already made a try of her costume but will receive it this monday.I heard by someone she already like it.

Project under construction: costumes for theatre

I did start making those costumes for the students in theatre.This week I did nothing because I was sick and Gwenyver who also accept to help me was sick too.One of the student who work with me is always joking and somethimes call me Madame , I told him he will be the last to get his costume if he said that in public.He said it will be funny to see his costume on my blog before he even try it.So I take the idea.The students will be able to see their costumes here before I bring them at the school.

The world of theatre is far different from movie or historical reenactment. In theatre , the look is more important than historical accuracy.The budget  have less 0000 before the $ sign.

I'm going to share my experience with this group of student on this blog showing "the making of " for their costumes.By this way , they will see another side of theatre .

Before the I start
In every project , you have to work with restrictions.This one is no exception to the rule.

The budget
The students , as far as I know, will make only one representation of the play which mean there is no need of too much fancy.The budget , being very limited  , required to use accessoiries , fabric or part of costume the teacher gave me to start.Every fabric who have been buy have cost less then 3$ per metre.I also gave a few fabrics I didn't plan to use which help a lot.

The color
Every costume of the play have to be in the same tone : beige.From ivory to a darker beige , I could'nt add any color .The reason of this is simply because there will be lights effects during the play.Beige is not a popular color and I was a little afraid to not be able to find low cost fabric but hopefully we found what we need in the discount section of the fabric store.

The time
Time is one of the most crucial factor.From the moment I get all fabrics , models and measurement of everyone , I have 7 weeks to make everything.Even if I have 13 costumes to make , it's a short deadline for me.Now I loose one week because I was sick.I do have a regular job and I do this after it and during the weekend.By march 28 , every student should have is costume ready.

To try on
My only chance to meet the student are monday afternoon and I have only 1h30 .During this time they should try on the costume and I must do the correction if necessary.Hopefully I could bring my sewing machine if needed .

The changement of costume
After a scene , some student have to go back immediately on the stage for the next scene which mean the changement of costume must be done very quickly.By very quickly , I was ask it should take  less then a minute.This restriction does not change anything on the look but more on the conception of the costume.For a very quickly , it involve to use velcro , nothing must be fit too tight , no lacing and something you can just put on and remove without any button or zipper.Here the rule to apply is FAST.

My own capacity
Keep in mind sewing is a hobby for me .I know my own limit and capacity , I have no shame to admit it or even to talk about it.After all I'm not a professionnal seamstress.I do those costume on my free time .I do have a regular job .That's why I do found the help I need.

The most important of this help is my dear friend Gwenyver from Costumeholic who's going to make a few costumes.To every student  , if you saw her , she deserve to be thanks , her help is precious.The second  is an assistant which is not a seamstress , when she's available , her help is much and very appreciate.She's also my friend ans co-worker.She's the shy lady who came with me at the school.

Because I do recognise my own limit and seek for help , I know I will be able to make it in the deadline.

Pictures to come on the next week.