Making the jacket - a transformation

The last piece of the costume : the jacket.As you know , it was a simplicity dress with a zipper in the back before and I wanted to modify it to something more historically correct.Here is want I get.

 The last picture of the dress before I undo it.The sleeves were too long and the ruffle in the front were falling.The blue seem darker but only because of the light and the spot I take the picture.Now I have  better  .

 A front view of the result  with a stomacher made of the same fabric.The yellow butterflies are pins.

The original pattern from Pattern of fashion 1 by Janet Arnold , p26 model B jacket from 1735-40

Where should I start.Making this project was a challenge and a nightmare.The challenge part.There is many thing I didn't know how to do it like the petticoat , finding the good accessoiries and using a pattern from a book for the first time.

The nightmare part.My first plan was to use the pattern from the book  Pattern of fashion1 p26 model b .We don't have a scanner at home so I ask my honey to do it from work and he says no problem.He also told me he could scan it and print it at the right scale.After asking well 10 times and more , it take 3-4 weeks before I finally get the thing.

The deadline was closer at this moment and I had no time for problem.I first cut the pattern in a cheap fabric to see how it fit but something was wrong.I had this pouffy effect on the side.I didn't know how to fix it .I was so , so dissapointed.My first thoughts was to give up , later to invent a false reason to not go to the activity I was suppose to organize.Finally I use the old part to create new one.

Front view with the jacket open to show the stomacher.The shape is similar to one model page 28.

To save time I use the pieces I already have to create something closer of the  pattern .The original front and side become a single piece and same thing for the back .I use the same sleeves and did the ruffle like those page 30 in the book.

I make a stomacher which really did not need embroidery because the fabric already have a great design.I start sewing hook and eye to fix the stomacher but sadly I soon realize they do not match so I can't close it properly.After three , I stop. For the event,I use safety pins .

I create the lower part of the jacket  but I'm not really satisfy with it.All the new pieces had been cut from the four pannels of the old dress.

A side view to show the ruffle.I really like the effect it create , it's elegant.I look at the piece in the book and draft it on paper.That was simple to do.

As you can see the back piece is too long.With the bumroll in place it gave this pouffy weird look.Anyway,the jacket itself is at least 2 sizes biggers then it should be.It's suppose to be adjust and it's not.At least it's comfortable.There is no lining inside because even if some fabric can breath , I have a very low tolerance for heat.

My honey make a confession:he doesn't like costuming event anymore. I must admit I haven't make anything for him since a long time and my skills are better now then when we met.He did came to the event in his old costume.It has required many reparations like some open seams need to be close and lost buttons .Time haven't been gentle with his costume.I gave him the choice to come or not , he came and I'm glad he did.

Petticoat

Ok here's the deal : english is not my first language and somethimes I'm not sure for some term.I really don't want to ask my friend G all the time or everytime I face a little problem of comprehension.I wasn't sure if petticoat was under skirt or if it could be the over skirt( the last one on the top).I think now it mean both of them , please if I'm wrong tell me.

My costume is compose of a petticoat and a jacket.I wasn't sure how I should make the skirt on the top because I want to make it period or close of it.Again , I look on the tutorial of American duchess to get an idea of how to do it.It's simple then I imagine.

I choose a cotton with a black design , 6m for 20$ (3 for the price of 1).My first choice was the same fabric but with a blue design  which I thought could do a better match(my jacket is blue) but it wasn't possible because there was not enough of it.The measure from my hips to the floor is 1m .I use four pannels of 1,1m to make the skirt plus a band to make the waistband.I add 10cm to my initial measure because of teh bumroll and my shoes have a little heel.Even if it's cotton ,  the final result is heavy so a proper support is an absolute necessity.Don't try to escape that.

The work in progress.Everything is fix with pins .Smaller pleat looks better (for me)and I think I use knife pleat .It's important to remember the pleat should looks to the middle and not looks on the same way.

To make the sewing easier , I iron the waistband before .It was easier and in the futur I will not try to skip this step.

The result when the waistband is in place.Trying to avoid step to save time will in fact not save it.Taking the time to make things properly is far better.The result is perfect on both side.Satisfaction 100%.

The petticoat on the sewing dummy , worn over the bumroll and quilt skirt.Making all these tiny pleat is what take 95% of the time of the entire construction.After I did pleat on one pannel , I sew it right away . Sometimes I have to add a few more pleast because it move during the sewing part.

The petticoat have opening on each side of the hip(what is call pocket slip) and close by a bow made from the waistband which is longer .In the futur I could do pocket even if I think I don't really need some .I must admit , I'm rarely 100% satisfy with something , but I think it was a success with that.

Accessoiries and underwear for my New France costume

Let's start with underwear and accessoiries.

My costume is something around 1760.Everyone know any lady need a beautiful hat to cover is head or at least I do it to cover my head from the sun.As far as I could see in museum and what other costumer done , the basic straw hat is cover with a matching fabric which is mostly silk.For now in my small appartment I don't the place for 5-10 for these .One hat for each costume will be nice but not for the moment.I have many other project and my hat should match with all of them (or almost).

That's why I choose to add lace on it.It's not too much and was easy to do.I use glue for fabric and pin the lace to be sure it doesn't move.The picture is the work in progress.The hat was buy from Jas.Townsend and son for 20$.

If you talk about summer it mean heat.I always get headhache because of it doesn't matter how much water I could drink.I thought a fan would be nice.My first idea was something with lace but it also  came with plastic.Fan from museum I saw  reflect scene of daily life.

I try to search for this but I found expensive antique piece between 500-1000$ on ebay and etsy.Reenactment seller offer chinese style fan ,which I already have.For my taste it's totally not period.

I finally found this fan on Etsy for 30$ from the seller Rewind the past.It was exactly what I want: made of wood and have a scene on it.I like it so much .My friend Gwenyver told me she was ask many time about where it came from.

I wasn't sure I was going to need a bumroll.I made one in case of , it's easy and quickly done.Mine is made of cotton , fill with polyester and tie by biais tape.

I made a neck handkerchief from embroided chiffon I already have . I must admit it was a little too small and should cut the squarre bigger .It can do the job but I'm not 100%satisfy.My sewing dummy need major reparations as you can see it.

After I decided I will need to wear the bumroll to support the skirt , I had to make something over it .If you don't it doesn't gave the same effect and you can perfectly see the bumroll which is not cute.Any costumer could see that .Mistake from a beginner.

My friend Gwenyver send me a link from the blog American duchess for none conventional support.The idea of making a skirt from a quilt fabric seam strange but it work so well.It make a huge difference.I use a quilt reversible fabric .There is no need to cut it , it's large enough to make what you see.It reach the knee.I buy + -  1.25m and made  just a few pleats.A better version could use something like 1.5m or 1.75 with more pleats .It perfectly hide the bumroll.

Nouvelle-France

This picture was taken at the Fête de la Nouvelle-France in Quebec city during the costume contest.I guess it was three or maybe four years ago.We both didn't expect to win anything but just for the fun to participate. The picture is fuzzy but is the only one I can post because we see many people on other.

At left
My honey is wearing a white shirt made of cotton , a black satin jacket with grey flower pattern , a blue coat (which cannot be close)made from the same fabric than the dress on the right and a black velvet pant.This costme is made from the pattern butterick 3072.
The shirt have button at the neck and wrist , the pant have a elastic at the waist.It have to be short but the bottom was unfinish because it should be gather and have a bow on both side.The hat was buy the same day and my honey was sewing the button of the jacket during the trip for Quebec city.

At right
I was wearing a dress made from simplicity 4092 but simplicty 3637 can be use too and the back seem more historical.I do not know the exact name of the fabric but I remember it was mostly cotton.
The lace at the sleeve and for the false underskirt is an embroided lace(expensive at the moment I buy it but I want this lace so much) which is very heavy and not so easy to sew but so beautiful.
The blue dress do not close at the front and under it I made a false underskirt which is in reality an apron made of a blue pale linen with embroided lace over it.It give the same effect but does not required a lot of fabric and in summer it is better.
At the neck a wear a piece of the same lace which for me give a little touch of authenticity(or at least people told me it looks like) and the umbrella is made from wood and lace and was borrow from my dear sister Gwenyver.